Photographs by RICK O’BRIEN
Words by ABBIE CORNISH

---

My ongoing culinary explorations have led me to some of the finest Mexican restaurants, challenging the notion that the best Mexican food must be street food – simple, inexpensive and casual. While the vibrant flavours of a roadside taco stand are undisputed, there is a different kind of allure in the upscale dining experiences offered by places like Quetzal, located in Toronto, Canada, helmed by Chef Steven Molnar.

Upon entering Quetzal (named after the resplendent national bird of Guatemala, distinguished by its brightly coloured tail feathers), guests are enveloped in a warm sensory charm. Centred around an open fire, the whole kitchen vibrates with the energy of the flame.

Quetzal is cosy and inviting. The space is well designed and custom fit to perfectly handle the heat and smoke from the open fires that burn all evening. After service, the crew swiftly packs down and the remaining red-hot embers are placed into a large kiln. The same embers are used to light the next day’s fire. There’s something lovely about this. As practical as it may be, the process feels spiritual and ritualistic.

It’s comfortable here. The vibe is relaxed and friendly. Chef Molnar is centre stage, accompanied by an array of characters who are more than adept in the kitchen. The service is prompt, knowledgeable and attentive – and everyone is happy.

Quetzal celebrates regional Mexican cuisine, inspired by traditional flavours and cooking styles, all prepared over a 28 foot-long open wood fire. Traditional moles, salsas and little-known ingredients are infused with an abundance of local produce making for a one-of-a-kind, elevated dining experience. Since assuming the role of head chef in 2019, Steven Molnar has spent years honing the craft of wood-fire cooking. His exploration of Mexican cuisine, in conjunction with his unique culinary background, has helped solidify Quetzal’s reputation as one of the premier dining destinations in Toronto, earning it a deserved Michelin Star. And this year, the restaurant ranked #12 in the 2024 Canada’s 100 Best restaurant list.

Here you can enjoy a very affordable and delectable tasting menu or order à la carte. The tasting menu ($125 CAD) is of exceptional value. Each course was a celebration of refined craftsmanship, marrying traditional flavours with modern dining standards. The pièce de résistance of the evening was undoubtedly the whole fish (whole Sea Bream with salsa roja and salsa cruda), perfectly seasoned and served with petite, soft, handmade tortillas. This dish alone encapsulated the perfect balance that high-end Mexican cuisine strives for.

Some of my other favourites that evening were the ensalada verde, with baby gem lettuce, Cookstown radishes, sunflower seeds, toasted sesame, chayote, poblano kosho and trout roe. Simple but with a little Chef Molnar twist on it, a gentle touch of bitter and sweet, a combination that Molnar does well in a variety of dishes. A unique style that is a delight to the taste buds. I also loved the dry-aged amberjack aguachile, which is accompanied by pasilla and chickpea miso, rhubarb juice, jicama, amaranth, habanero, scallion oil and white soy. And the memela is absolutely delicious: a traditional masa, made with homemade corn dough using a cónico azul that comes from Puebla, stuck with cheese that is crafted in-house, called quesillo. The quesillo is long and pulled in strands, looking almost like a ball of yarn. On top is a salsa de chile morita, made from very small chillies that are both floral and smoky. And speaking of smoky, here we also have a smoked shiitake mushroom conserva, some mizuna, papa chicharron and grilled runner beans. So good! Another notable dish is the bone marrow and wild Argentinian shrimp. Such a great combination. I loved getting my hands dirty with this one! 

The desserts are well worth indulging in. I particularly loved the coconut nicuatole. It’s the signature dessert here and has been on the menu since day one. Coconut milk and coconut cream are blended with leftover masa from the kitchen. After that, the combo is cooked down into a silken custard texture and whipped. It’s then served with pineapple compressed with hibiscus syrup, mezcal, meringue and mint. It’s memorable, that’s for sure.

With an extensive beverage menu, including an incredibly long wine list and many delicious handcrafted cocktails, Quetzal also makes for a great watering hole. Wine pairing is priced at $100 CAD per person. I thoroughly enjoyed the pairing, definitely worth it. Though I have to say the highlight for me was the ‘No Heather, It’s Heather’s Turn’ cocktail, also known as ‘The Green Heather’. This cocktail is made with agua santa mezcal, pisco, pineapple, green sauce, celery bitters and lime. It’s fresh yet savoury, a perfect cocktail in my opinion.

Critics often argue that Mexican cuisine should stick to its roots, emphasizing accessibility and straightforwardness. However, chefs at top-tier establishments like Quetzal are proving that Mexican food can also thrive in a fine-dining context. They reinterpret classic dishes using high-quality ingredients and sophisticated techniques, presented with artistic flair. This approach doesn’t just transform the ingredients; it elevates the entire dining experience, offering a new perspective on traditional Mexican flavours.

The culinary world is inherently about evolution and personal expression. Fine-dining Mexican establishments contribute to this diversity, allowing both chefs and diners to explore and appreciate the cuisine in novel ways. The journey through such meals is more than just eating; it’s an immersive experience that respects the past while boldly embracing the future.