Photographs by MARK READ
Words by JANE CROWTHER


Created for work but famed for film flights of fancy, Hollywood Authentic celebrates downtown LA’s Bradbury Building, a storied location fit for a Blade Runner.

When Victorian millionaire Lewis Bradbury decided to build an office for him to commute to, he didn’t want to travel far. His lavish 50-room mansion on Bunker Hill in Downtown LA looked over real estate on 3rd Street, and Bradbury bought land to create a magnificent office block a 10-minute walk from his front door. (From 1901, he might have used the Angel’s Flight funicular railway to glide up and down the hill.) He died in 1892, just months before the build was completed, so he never saw the finished magnificence of the ornate wrought-iron railings and birdcage elevators, soaring skylights and gorgeous tilework that make this La-La landmark a regular stop for gawking walking tours and ensure it is now a part of cinematic history. 

Blade Runner, Double Indemnity, George Wyman, The Artist, The Bradbury Building
Blade Runner, Double Indemnity, George Wyman, The Artist, The Bradbury Building

Bradbury wanted to exhibit the wealth he had amassed from gold and silver mining and, after a false start with an architect he lost faith in, he commissioned a young draftsman, George Wyman, to design his monument. Wyman, for his part, was unsure of taking on such a huge project as a first gig, but took the job despite his inexperience after he consulted his dead brother via Ouija board. The fledgling architect had his eye on the future when he conceived the building – taking inspiration from an 1888 time travel sci-fi novel by Edward Bellamy. In Looking Backward, the year 2000 was envisaged as a Socialist Utopian society where buildings were high rises with glass roofs. In Wyman’s futuristic interpretation, he designed a huge glass atrium under which wrought-iron railings hung like vegetation, and marble staircases and detailed elevators transported workers up and down the five floors – run on a counterweighted water system that came from a natural spring discovered under the site during construction. (They were later converted to hydraulic power.) 

Blade Runner, Double Indemnity, George Wyman, The Artist, The Bradbury Building
Blade Runner, Double Indemnity, George Wyman, The Artist, The Bradbury Building

During its construction, Wyman imported Italian marble, Mexican tiles and French wrought iron (which was shown at the Chicago World’s Fair as new-fangled before being installed in the atrium). It cost Bradbury half a million dollars – a huge amount even for a millionaire who liked to flash his cash – and opened in 1893 to tenants such as Bradbury’s own legal team. It has maintained its use as a commercial building since then, one of the oldest in LA – though it had a period during the Prohibition era when a speakeasy was run out of the basement with booze distributed via a network of tunnels. It’s now the only commercial office building in Los Angeles to be designated as a National Historic Landmark. And though it has had a recent period-sympathetic restoration courtesy of the ownership team, Downtown Properties (who also look after The Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel), now boasting a co-working office, gallery space and a buzzy members-only bar; the lure of many visiting the building is the chance to walk in the rain-drenched footsteps of replicant hunter, Deckard.

Blade Runner, Double Indemnity, George Wyman, The Artist, The Bradbury Building

Blade Runner, Ridley Scott’s trailblazing 1982 neo-noir sci-fi, was shot here when the production was looking for a location to play the home of replicant godfather, Tyrell, who LAPD’s Rick Deckard (Harrison Ford) pays a visit to – only to find Daryl Hannah’s backflipping Pris and a much-quoted denouement on the roof with Rutger Hauer’s Roy Batty. Deckard peers out of his car window at the stone-carved Bradbury sign from 3rd Street, before making his way into a lobby dressed for the 21st century (2017) – an advertising blimp floating above in a neon sky, casting light into the darkness of the distinct balconies and elevator shafts. Scott’s cyberpunk vibe nodded to Old Hollywood, and the Bradbury certainly matched that aesthetic – not only in its looming shadows but the fact that noirs such as 1944’s Double Indemnity, 1949’s D.O.A. and 1951’s M had also used the place as a location. Later, the building would be Jack Nicholson’s offices in Wolf, and the workspace of Joseph Gordon-Levitt’s romantic greetings card writer in 500 Days of Summer. In The Artist, Jean Dujardin’s silent era star passes Bérénice Bejo’s ingenue on the recognisable stairs, representing the trajectory of their characters’ careers as he walks down and she skips up. And Janet Jackson’s Rhythm Nation music video also used the dry-ice swirled elevators and plant room. The Bradbury is also a literary inspiration: it’s the stand-in for the Belmont in Raymond Chandler’s The High Window, described by his PI Marlowe as ‘eight stories of nothing’ with a ‘dark narrow lobby… as dirty as a chicken yard’. 

Blade Runner, Double Indemnity, George Wyman, The Artist, The Bradbury Building
Blade Runner, Double Indemnity, George Wyman, The Artist, The Bradbury Building
Blade Runner, Double Indemnity, George Wyman, The Artist, The Bradbury Building

For Scott’s story, the building was set-dressed to look dilapidated, with lights rigged to track across the staircases. The nearby Grand Union train station stood in for Police HQ, while Frank Lloyd Wright’s distinctive Ennis House in Los Feliz was Deckard’s home. The use of real buildings was a deliberate choice for Scott who said ‘if the future is one you can see and touch, it makes you a little uneasier because you feel it’s just round the corner’. It worked for the celebrated author of the short story, Do Android Dream Of Electric Sheep?, on which the film is based, Philip K Dick. ‘It’s like being transported to the ultimate city of the future, with all the good things and all the bad things about it,’ he enthused after seeing Scott’s slick, neon-drenched vision for his tale in a pre-visualisation reel.

Blade Runner, Double Indemnity, George Wyman, The Artist, The Bradbury Building

Hollywood Authentic couldn’t resist using our own theatrics during our shoot, getting permission to use smoke in the listed building to replicate a Blade Runner vibe

Though the offices above the lobby are not open to visitors (so no looking for Pris in the rooms above), the Bradbury understands the interest in its architectural and cinematic legacy. The impressive lobby is open to the public throughout the working day in the week and over lunch at the weekend when the bustling Central Market opposite is a hive of activity. Anyone can take a detour to crane their neck at the Victorian glazing overhead, the manned elevators and lacework bannisters. There is a way to earn the privilege of climbing the stairs like the LAPD’s finest Blade Runner: the work and desk spaces are available to rent and Wyman’s Bar – where a lifesized Deckard print decorates the wall – offers ‘social memberships’. 


Photographs by MARK READ
Words by JANE CROWTHER
www.thebradburybuilding.com
www.neuehouse.com/wyman-bar

Words by STEPHEN MERCHANT


In 1944, director Billy Wilder released the quintessential film noir before the term even existed. Double Indemnity bears all the hallmarks of the genre: wiseass repartee; crisp black-and-white cinematography; a manipulative femme fatale twisting a lust-fuelled sap around her finger; shards of light pouring through venetian blinds casting prison-bar shadows across the faces of our amoral protagonists as they hurtle towards a doomed comeuppance. 

This is no spoiler. The movie opens at night (it’s noir, of course it’s night) with a wounded man driving his coupe through downtown LA, staggering to his office, and dictating a confession to his colleague: ‘Hold tight to that cheap cigar of yours, Keyes. I killed Dietrichson. Me, Walter Neff, insurance agent, 35 years old, unmarried, no visible scars… until a little while ago, that is. Yes, I killed him. I killed him for money – and a woman – and I didn’t get the money and I didn’t get the woman.’ 

barbara stanwyck, billy wilder, double indemnity, fred macmurray, raymond chandler, hollywood authentic, review
Double Indemnity © Paramount Pictures/Filmgrab
barbara stanwyck, billy wilder, double indemnity, fred macmurray, raymond chandler, hollywood authentic, review
Double Indemnity © Paramount Pictures/Filmgrab

From here, flashbacks show Neff (Fred MacMurray) falling for the glamorous but unhappily married Phyllis Dietrichson (Barbara Stanwyck). Together they concoct a devilishly clever plan to bump off Phyllis’ husband for his accident insurance money, only to come under the suspicious gaze of Neff’s friend and colleague, insurance investigator Barton Keyes (Edward G. Robinson). 

Double Indemnity is an early example of a ‘whydunnit’, telling us the killer’s identity upfront (a narrative technique popularised 30 years later by TV’s Columbo), but is it the first thriller to make us root for a bad guy driven by greed and sex? Unclear, but certainly that opening narration sets the blackly comic tone that pervades the film, in which brief early scenes of sunny LA give way to ever more darkening shadows as our conniving pair descend into murder and betrayal. 

The movie was based on a novella by hardboiled crime writer James M. Cain, who as a journalist had attended the trial of a woman and her lover convicted of a similar murder in the 1920s. 

barbara stanwyck, billy wilder, double indemnity, fred macmurray, raymond chandler, hollywood authentic, review
Double Indemnity © Paramount Picture/Filmgrab

Wilder’s regular screenwriting collaborator Charles Brackett declined to adapt the book, regarding it as too scandalous and immoral, so Wilder famously hired master crime author Raymond Chandler, creator of the archetypal gumshoe Philip Marlowe. Chandler assumed that writing a film would be quick and easy, taking maybe three weeks. When he was told his weekly rate was $750, he thought he could stretch it out to four. As described by Maurice Zolotow in his biography Billy Wilder in Hollywood: ‘[Chandler] schlepped it in five weeks later. Billy read it at once while Chandler watched. Then he threw it – yes, hurled it – right at Chandler. It hit him in the chest and fell on his lap. “This is shit, Mr. Chandler,” he said amiably. He suggested that Chandler use it as a doorstop.’

Their relationship went downhill from there, with Chandler battling alcoholism and Wilder every step of the way. Nevertheless, their Oscar- nominated screenplay is a triumph, cleverly refining and reworking the novella while injecting Chandler’s trademark wit and smart-alec crosstalk. Take Phyllis and Walter’s flirty first encounter, fizzing with innuendo to dodge the censor’s red pencil: 


PHYLLIS: There’s a speed limit in this state, Mr. Neff. Forty-five miles an hour. 

NEFF: How fast was I going, officer? 

PHYLLIS: I’d say about ninety. 

NEFF: Suppose you get down off your motorcycle and give me a ticket. 

PHYLLIS: Suppose I let you off with a warning this time. 

NEFF: Suppose it doesn’t take. 

PHYLLIS: Suppose I have to whack you over the knuckles. 

NEFF: Suppose I bust out crying and put my head on your shoulder. 


PHYLLIS: Suppose you try putting it on my husband’s shoulder.


As a film and TV writer, I know full well that good dialogue is only as good as the actors delivering it, and Stanwyck and MacMurray are faultless, loading every line with just the right amount of sexy snark, Fred grinning an insouciant smirk, Barbara fighting the urge to do the same. 

Years later, movies like Basic Instinct would make these seduction scenes explicit, but in 1940s Hollywood every erotic beat had to be carefully calibrated to sneak past America’s moral guardians. It was racy enough that Stanwyck first appears at the top of a staircase in a towel; moments later, Wilder’s camera fixates on her anklet as she descends in what were scripted as ‘pom-pom slippers’ – signifiers that despite her nice suburban home, Phyllis (in Wilder’s words) is showy and trashy. It’s the reason the director made Stanwyck wear a cheap blonde wig, which is constantly distracting once you realise it’s a piece. As one studio executive who hated the wig apparently stated: “We hire Barbara Stanwyck and we get George Washington.’ 

barbara stanwyck, billy wilder, double indemnity, fred macmurray, raymond chandler, hollywood authentic, review
Double Indemnity © Paramount Picture/Filmgrab
barbara stanwyck, billy wilder, double indemnity, fred macmurray, raymond chandler, hollywood authentic, review
Double Indemnity © Paramount Picture/Filmgrab

For a city that seems to have little reverence for its historical buildings, I take great pleasure in discovering (via Google maps) that the exterior of the Dietrichson residence, a Spanish Colonial Revival-style house in the Hollywood hills, has changed very little since it starred in the movie almost 80 years ago. If Double Indemnity is a thoroughbred film noir, it’s also a Los Angeles movie to its core, partly thanks to its locations – including the Hollywood & Western Building and the Hollywood Bowl – but also because every frame seems soaked in the sweat and humidity, cynicism and paranoia, of the big city. 

Neff’s North Kingsley Drive apartment block is still standing too, the setting for one of the finest suspense scenes in any movie. Neff receives a late-night visit from Keyes, whose ‘little man’ in his stomach keeps telling him something is amiss with the Dietrichson insurance claim. Oblivious, Phyllis is on her way up to the apartment, but if she encounters Keyes, the murder conspiracy will be blown wide open. She is about to enter Neff’s apartment as Keyes is leaving, but at the last moment ducks behind Neff’s apartment door, which inexplicably opens outwards into the corridor. No apartment door has ever done this in the history of construction, but it’s testament to the movie’s immersive, slow-burning suspense that you don’t even register it on first, second or fiftieth watch. 

At the 17th Academy Awards, Double Indemnity was rightly nominated for seven Oscars but wrongly won none. Wilder was apparently so furious about losing Best Director to Leo McCarey for the mawkish Going My Way that as McCarey walked to the stage, Wilder tripped him up. It’s the perfect coda for a movie that not only trips up but snaps the neck of the polite mores and suburban civilities that America was trying to sell itself in the 1940s; a movie that only an émigré like Wilder, having escaped the horrors of the Nazis, could so gleefully use to expose the dark, irredeemable recesses of human behaviour; a movie that in 2024, an election year in which politicians would have us believe there was once a golden age in which America was happy and bright, reminds us the country has always been merrily, deliciously dark.

barbara stanwyck, billy wilder, double indemnity, fred macmurray, raymond chandler, hollywood authentic, review
Double Indemnity © Paramount Picture/Filmgrab

Double Indemnity (1944) Paramount  Pictures directed by Billy Wilder, starring Fred MacMurray and Barbara Stanwyck. Available on YouTube