Photographs by KALI
Words by ABBIE CORNISH

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Hollywood Authentic’s restaurant correspondent Abbie Cornish tastes hyper-seasonal elegance in the heart of Hollywood.

Nestled between Hollywood and Larchmont Village, Kali is a neighbourhood restaurant that redefines Californian cuisine through a refined yet accessible lens. Created by lifelong friends Chef Kevin Meehan and Drew Langley, it offers an approachable take on fine dining, emphasising ingredient integrity, technical prowess and exceptional service. A casual yet refined experience in an environment that is both relaxed and distinguished.

Kali’s contemporary Californian charm is evident the moment you step inside. The restaurant’s interior is fresh and inviting, featuring wooden accents and cushioned seating with soft white tones. Blue-and-white paintings provide a subtle touch of artistry, making the space simple yet cosy. This unpretentious setting perfectly complements the restaurant’s mission: to deliver cuisine that is organic, sustainable, rooted in quality ingredients, elevated by an understated elegance. The open kitchen serves as a central feature, giving diners a glimpse into the craft behind each dish.

Chef Kevin Meehan’s culinary expertise is evident throughout Kali. With a career that includes time at the Patina Restaurant Group, Meehan has cultivated a unique style blending technical prowess with creativity. He met Langley in 2001 while both were working at L’Orangerie, and their partnership has only grown stronger since. Before opening Kali, Langley served as the wine director at Providence, bringing a wealth of experience to their collaboration and ensuring Kali’s success.

Kali’s hospitality is exceptional. The staff bring a perfect blend of warmth and professionalism, guiding guests through the evening with ease. From recommending ideal wine pairings to providing insights into the seasonal menu, their dedication to Kali’s vision is evident, making every guest feel valued.

The menu is a tribute to California’s rich agricultural bounty – around 90 per cent of the ingredients are sourced from local farms, emphasising organic and sustainable practices. This focus results in a dynamic, seasonal menu that brings out the best in every ingredient. A menu that celebrates the intrinsic qualities of each and every component, allowing their flavors to be fully realised.

The chef’s tasting menu is a showcase of contemporary Californian cuisine, featuring nine courses that highlight the restaurant’s dedication to fresh, seasonal ingredients. Each dish, from the truffle mushroom risotto (more of which later) to the dry-aged lamb chop with allium XO sauce and chanterelles, serves as homage to the culinary possibilities inherent in the local landscape. For plant-based diners, a dedicated tasting menu ensures an equally enriching experience.

Our dining experience commenced with the Crowded Beach, a vibrant assortment of mussels, uni, clams, yellowtail and other treasures of the sea, each bite bursting with fresh, oceanic flavor. Followed by the Beef Tartar Cigar, an inventive presentation of finely seasoned beef tartare encased in a crispy shell, accompanied by a rich yolk dip for added depth. A highlight of the meal was the mushroom risotto, featuring spigarello, Fiscalini cheddar and oyster mushrooms. Adding the truffle supplement brought an extra layer of indulgence to the dish, enhancing its flavor complexity. The autumn salad showcased fresh produce from the farmers’ market, offering a vibrant and refreshing prelude to the mains. Among them was the sea urchin pasta. This pasta stood out with its creamy emulsion and delicate breadcrumb topping, capturing a sense of oceanic luxury. The Liberty Farms duck breast was tender and well-paired with kuri squash and autumn spices, embodying the warm flavours of the season. 

For dessert, Meehan fashioned a toasted meringue gelato made with Strauss cream. Shaved on top was a house-cured egg yolk that offers a sweet-and-salty texture, resulting in a dessert with a rich, decadent mouthfeel balanced with a light, airy texture – a fitting finale to an exceptional meal.

Langley’s carefully curated wine programme is a testament to his extensive experience and knowledge. The wine list showcases an impressive selection of both local and international wines, with an emphasis on Central Coast varietals and rare, small-production bottles sourced from private collections. For a truly immersive experience, opting for the wine pairing with the tasting menu is highly recommended.

Kali’s handcrafted cocktails are just as noteworthy. The Alley Cat, with amaretto, strawberry tequila and Luxardo, was bold and flavourful; while the Shanah Tovah, made with Tom Cat gin, honey apple and kombucha, provided a refreshing and unique twist.

Kali offers more than just a meal – it delivers an experience that stays with you long after the last bite. Meehan and Langley have crafted a space that is personal yet sophisticated, with every detail thoughtfully considered. Whether you’re a local searching for a new favourite spot or from out of town and eager to explore Los Angeles’ culinary offerings, Kali is a neighbourhood gem that’s well worth a visit. Tell Chef Kevin I sent you…